A home is built for a lifetime. Any damage to the home out of bad weather is definitely heart breaking. So it is well-said that “prevention is better than cure”. This is not only applicable to all human beings; undeniably it fits well when coming to the use of insulators for our home.

Ruins in Cañon de Chelle, N.M., in a cavity in...

 

Researches say that half the heat is lost from the home through the wall and loft, also a good contribution is made by the doors, windows and pipes. So investment on insulation is worthy. To name a few varieties of insulations applied to the homes are – cavity insulation, wool insulation, floor insulation, loft insulation, glazing, tanks and pipes and many more.

A building having a cavity wall i.e, the outer wall and the inner wall being separated by an empty space or a cavity needs to go for the cavity wall insulation, since the outer wall tends to lose a larger amount of heat. With good cavity wall insulation, which uses a suitable insulant material, a suitable room temperature can be achieved. It is a simple and a cost effective solution that saves the fuel of the occupant.

San Jordi walls

 

Coming to the insulating board widely used by many movie halls, pubs, conference halls and the recording studios, it guarantees noise reduction coefficient, sound absorptive properties, flame resilient and low weight when the board is an acoustic wall. Besides some other categories of insulation boards also provide benefits like UV resistance, ozone resistance and corrosion resistance. The insulating boards are also used for the floor having rooms below with adequate ventilation.

Wool insulation is also a popular choice these days. Some of the great features of the wool are – a natural choice, not inert, healthy, eco-friendly, hygroscopic, non-allergic, fire resistant, low in conductivity, absorbs gases and fumes, and low in embodied energy. Therefore with wool insulation, air conditioning is ofcourse natural

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Mineral wool insulation isn’t similar to the wool insulation. Mineral wool is the rock wool which is manufactured from the steel slag. This kind of insulation is permanent and effective against moisture and some agents of rots which are often unavoidable. One of the similar properties it shares with the wool insulation is its fire resistant property. But simultaneously extra precaution needs to be taken while working with it as it raises certain health concern especially to the eyes, skin and lung. So taking professional help at the time of installations guarantees the protection of our home and health as well.

Another way of saving a lot of valuable and expensive energy is by insulating the loft. So using the loft insulation, carbon dioxide emissions can be reduced, the major cause for climate change. Loft insulation prevents internal condensation assuring a warmer winter and a cooler summer, reduces noise from outside and thus improves the energy efficiency rating of the home.

 

Global warming the rising concern these days can be prevented to some extent with the application of above mentioned insulators to our homes. So let us take the initiative in making our planet a better place for living.

Olive Palmer is the author of this article on Cavity Insulation. Find more information about Wool insulation here.

Author: Olive Palmer
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

Steve asks…

whats a good material to put in between the plasterboard and the walls to stop noise escaping?

i want to build a night club but want to keep the building costs low what material could i place inbetween the plaster board and the brick walls? hmmmm had a thought you guys tell me if you think this will work … say i had plasterboard then a 1-2 inch gap of air then corrugated pvc sheet type roofing so they reflect the sound waves away from the wall and then normal loft type insulation on the back of that im also going to angle the walls downwars slightly should also make the room look cooler if done right any other ideas would be grately appreciated :)

admin answers:

I’ve heard that cork board is a great sound barrier and blocks out or in sounds. I’ve heard that it will absorb the sound.

Mandy asks…

 

Removing attic flooring from old home (built in 1900)?

I’m considering purchasing an old home to fix up. This would also be my residence. One of the biggest detractions from the house are low ceilings in the second floor. The house is small as it is, but the height of the second floor is only 6 1/2 feet tall. Granted, I won’t be hitting the ceiling (I’m only 5 foot 3), but reselling it will be difficult with the low ceilings. Also, it makes the rooms seem incredibly smaller than it would if it was a higher ceiling.

Above the second floor, there is a very shallow height attic. It follows the pattern of the roof – where the ceiling (roof) starts at a triangular corner at the base floor of both sides of the room. You can only stand up in the center of the room. The attic floor is not very sturdy – it seems like it was made of latched boards. My uneducated thought – is that maybe the floor of the attic could be removed, opening up the space of the top floor, hence making it more marketable and most importantly, more livable.

How much does it typically cost to do something like that (remove an old attic floor such as the one in the house)? Would it potentially cause significant insulation issues – and would it be difficult to address ensuing insulation issues? Would it be something that can be done while I was living in the house – assuming that I moved my stuff downstairs and lived on the first floor for awhile? If not, how long would a project like that take? Is it something I would need to have a contractor do for me – or could part of it be done by me? I’m assuming that at least some of it would be beyond my abilities.

Thanks!

admin answers:

Hi, Laura. Most houses built in that period were all wood construction. Taking out the ceiling joists of the second floor may weaken the structure and make the walls unstable which would make your roof structure unstable. I would definitely get a design architect to look at the structure to give you her/his opinion. It sounds like a great idea, but if no one else has done it in over 100 years, there may be a reason.
The work itself, if Ok’d by the architect, should be done by a reputable contractor. Not some HooDoo off the internet or the green sheet.

(You may be able to box-in open areas using header material about 18 to 24 inches from the wall edges).

Thomas asks…

how to replace my garage door?

i ran into my garage door the other day and had my friends dad come check it out to see if he could replace it. he said that i should go through homeowners insurance, but we are leasing the house and the owner is extremely selfish, and won’t use his insurance to do so. he also said to check if the boards used in the door are still made by that company. however, i can’t find the company name, and am just going with the idea that i will have to replace the door. any other ideas? if not, how much do you think it would cost to replace it? it’s a double garage (not sure of exact size), i don’t want insulation, and i want the cheapest kind. and any ideas where to get this? thanks :(

admin answers:

Don’t feel bad, I’ve done it twice. The boards can usually be replaced and the doors can almost ALWAYS be repaired. The last time I did it I really ran OVER the door. They complained but were able to fix it. I ended up putting in some new boards because I had ruined the others. Look in the yellow pages under garage doors and find an installer. If there is more than one see if you can get a free estimate. I had one company “Overhead Garage Doors” give me a price break because another company said they could do it cheaper. It was a lot, but it was something. I got a new car and it has sensors that go off and I have back up cameras…but…don’t say never….because if anyone can run over a garage door….it’s me!!!! I paid out of pocket because it would raise our home owners insurance too much. Good luck!!!

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Common building isulations inside an apartment...
Image via Wikipedia

If you are using insulated plasterboard the easiest way to ensure that you are getting the correct product is by asking an expert. This way ensures that you are getting the best advice from the people that know about your items. Insulated plasterboard comes in a number of differing types:

British Gypsum for instance produce a thermaline basic, thermaline super and thermaline plus all which meet differing and specific needs. A basic product is backed with standard polystyrene insulation and is used as a most basic requirement in any construction.

Daniel asks…

How do I insulate an attic-bedroom conversion?

I’ve got a house with an attic conversion that was done before I moved in. So far I’ve been using it as storage, but after living here a year I know that the attic room is an icebox in winter and a sauna in the summer, regardless of the temperature of the rest of the house.

I take this to mean that the attic is not insulated properly? The conversion looks like an amateur job and it doesn’t look like it was finished before the house was up for sale.

What do I need to buy and do to insulate the attic properly?
What kind of insulation do I need?

What it looks like I’ve got is the actual sloped roof itself, with plasterboard panels nailed to the beams, creating a cavity. In the cavity is what looks like plain old polystyrene. Yes, that’s right, polystyrene. I’m not aware that polystyrene is a good insulator. What do I buy to replace it with? And is it that simple to put the right kind of material in the cavity, or is there more to it than that?

admin answers:

If you want it done right,strip off the celing boards.pull down the strene,throw it away.go to lowe’s,home depot.ect.purchase the wafer panels for celing use.thease are panels that are set up to allow air to flow on roof side.they have a channel built in to them.and a staple adge on both sides.they go up easy.from the wall ends to the peak and overlap.they fit between the roof boards.then you can put up your good old r 38 roll insul.staple this up too.comes in widths of 16 and 24 inches.just measure.then replace your celing board,mud ,tape,paint.done.it sounds like alot of work ,but isnt.just takes time.but thease places all have weekend how to clinics,and really good people to answer your questions.and this way should save you some money on the energy bill.that in a year could pay for the work you did,so get er done”have fun and good luck.

Chris asks…

I am planning to use a shipping container and make a house. How would I avoid damp forming inside.?

I will be insulating the container on the outside and lining the inside of the container with plasterboard and rochwall insulation. I am worried about moisture behind the plasterboard forming on the surface of the steel. I will paint the steel for a vapour barrier and screed the floor with a flexible screed. I will do the ceiling the same as the walls.

admin answers:

You might be able to use actual vapor barrier..It is like a plastic sheeting that keeps moisture out .Steel building manufacturers have the same issues to deal with so I would check into the types of insulation and moisture barriers that they use. Great to see someone building with using shipping containers I wanted to do that myself ever since I first heard of it but haven’t been able yet.

Http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/products/commercial/comm_commercialwrap.html

http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp

Jemima asks…

i am turning my garage into office & need to know about isulating it?

it has single skin brickwork & intend to baton out interior walls & plasterboard, but knot sure whats best to insulate cavity with.

admin answers:

The problem with 100mm insulation is you will have to batten out to almost the same thickness as the insulation. You are much better off using insulation wall slabs these are designed to fit CLS battens. Make sure you space the battens so the slabs fit in with out having to cut them. Also think about buying plaster board which is foil backed. Use bugle headed screws rather then nails.

Graham asks…

Thermoboard or Spray Foam Insulation? max 25mm which is best?

I need to apply some insulation to a concrete ceiling the -topside being exposed to open air, hence its cold in winter on the inside!. I have limited headroom so can only go to max of 45mm inc plasterboard. Which option is best? The room will be heated and correctly ventilated, so I just need to stop the cold air against the ceiling causing the cold, as the walls are insulated.

admin answers:

Spray foam requires studding or furring out space. The Thermoboard can be directly applied to ceiling if smmoth enough, thus preserving headroom. Also spray foam is more expensive & requires pro application. The other is DIY.

Caroline asks…

Thermal foil insulation, which way should the foil face?

I have just purchased Thermal foil insulation for the loft, but the instructions are not great. I have had a loft conversion, but I want to insulate the storage area in the front of the roof.I am going to use this on the beams that seperate the room and the store, but should the foil face the plasterboard, or the store area?
By the way, the insulation comes on a roll, with foil on one side and bubble wrap on the other.

admin answers:

The foil should face the warm side of the wall or floor, otherwise it will trap condensation.

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Rockwool stud cavity insulation inside of dryw...

Thermal Insulation Boards are manufactured from different types of thermal insulating material. They are sheets which have insulating qualities, and are placed into buildings where heat loss can be a problem, causing unnecessary economical costs.

They are available in many different sizes, and can be simply cut to fit the desired space, then laid, glued, or fixed into place with the appropriate fixings i.e. nails or screws. Insulation boards are made from various insulating materials, and very commonly manufactured using rigid insulating foam with a thin sheet of reflecting foil adhered to one or both sides.

The areas of a building usually requiring thermal boards or similar insulation applications are the roof, floor and exterior walls. They are generally fixed into the building at the time of construction; however boards are generally not fitted into flo

ors or roofs, and can be applied later on in the buildings development if so desired.

In many buildings and particularly in the housing sector, solid timber in the form of head rails, studs, and sole plates, as well as intermediate floor joists and trimmers, will usually account for more than 20% of the external surface area of the building. This means that quite often less than 80% of the building is actually insulated.

Recent modern methods of construction have seen a rise in the popularity of steel framed buildings for commercial and residential

developments. This is because the framed panels are constructed off-site and then transported to the location where they are erected.

To reduce heat loss a thermal insulating layer, typically some form of insulating board, is placed on the outside of the frame to eliminate thermal bridging through the metal studs. This is known as warm frame construction.

Improper Firestop and Fireproofing interface, ...

There are many different types of insulation boards and some of these can include:

o    Underfloor

o    Wall

o    Roof & Ceiling

o    Exterior wall

o    Exterior roof insulation boards & sheets

With today’s changing climate, offsetting and minimizing any carbon footprint by saving energy is becoming a popular and necessary action to take.

If you are in need of this service check out our product pages, they contain many companies that specialise in this. John Cheesman writes about Thermal Insulation Boards. Visit the Businessmagnet product page for details and suppliers of Thermal Insulation Boards.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Cheesman

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2816760



 

 

 

 

Mark asks…

how much is it gonna cost to fix my walls? 10 points!?

so the new room im moving into has a wall that has the insulation sticking out , and part of the wood wall is missing , thats why its sticking out. the other wall has like insulation board on it, and it looks like crap. should i just put thin would or dry wall over it and paint it? how much will this cost? thanks

admin answers:

1/2″ drywall is really inexpensive About $12.00 for a 4 x 8 sheet. With tape and screws and plaster an entire average room would cost about $ 150.00 to put up regular walls. Paint if you need all the supplies would be another $ 120.00 $ 15.00 for primer $ 20 to 40 for paint the rest for the tray tape roller brushes. If the room is above ground use drywall if it is in the basement use paneling (the thin wood).

David asks…

Ceiling Insulation Question?

In my cellar I have normal wooden framing for the ceiling, with in between each board some standard yellow insulation (The kind that looks like cotton candy). I’m tired of seeing it falling out, and I want to put up some sort of plastic/styrofoam board ceiling. How easily can this be done and how much would it cost per square foot of the material?

admin answers:

If you live in either the middle or southern staes you really dont need insulation at all. Heat rises and any from the cellar will help warm the floor. No insulation also helps with moisture issues. The floor is already cold on your feet with insulation and you wont feel the difference without.

Cindy asks…

Attic and Exterior Wall insulation?

Location: Austin, TX

I’m purchasing a new house. The builder is putting fiberglass batt insulation in exterior walls and blow-in firberglass insulation (R-38, 12inches) in attic.

Attic:
1. Is R-38, 12″ enough for firberglass fill? or should I go with cellulose. Cellulose seems to have issues with moisture and settling down overtime.

2. If I put cellulose, I think I cannot use that space at all, right? Is it okay to put a board to increase usable space?

Exterior Walls:
3. Anyone used cellulose for it? Is it worth the cost and maintenance?

4.. Is it worth the risk do it in both?
5. How to check if there any leaks or moisture buildup if I use cellular?
6. What are the maintenance costs?

Thanks in advance for your advice!
I forget to mention that, the roof already comes with Tech Shield Radiant Barrier and we also have Ridge and Soffit Venting.

Do I still need to go for Cellulose in attic? Are above not enough?

admin answers:

I am sure the contractor is using fiberglass in the attic because he has access to the joists and can easily roll out the insulation. You can put down plywood or particle board on top of the fiberglass to make usable attic space with no problem. Cellulose is being used in the walls because unless you want to tear out walls and put in the rolled insulation, it is the easiest method to spray it in. The cellulose will settle after time, but we are talking about quite a few years. And any insulation is better than none. When we first moved into this house, there was NO insulation and we could sit inside the house and the wind outside would blow our hair. I have never had to Maintain insulation, it is just there. Unless it gets wet somehow and needs to be replaced, I can’t think of anything you would need to do to it.

Marie asks…

thermal properties of Kingspan Insulation boards?

external walls upto 3m’s high:- 1MM thick Coated galvinised mild steel profile sheeting, 80mm mineral wool quilt with 100mm heavyweight block internal finish..

ok question is what part of this element would be exchanged for the insulation boards? internal part? filling or external?

and more importantly, does anyone know the thermal properties for the boards? ‘U’ values, or its heat capacity? if you cant go that deep can you tell me why the insulation board is better than the current set up? i need good detailed answers please!

im looking to find out which one is going to keep heat in! and the difference in heat loss between both set ups. and cost comparisons..

thanks for any help.

if you can give mre help plz email or IM me Jarinsiran1@yahoo.co.uk

admin answers:

I agree that you should go to kingspans website to check the K value of their materials so that you can calculate the U value of the entire wall.

Rockwool is a reasonable insulator, but will have no where near the resistance of a good thickness of high density foam insulation (not polystyrene).

You can get both composite panels and built up systems of insulation, the built up systems tend to use rockwool. A good system is the planjja (check the spelling) system.

Suggest you buy an environmental science book and learn how to calculate heat losses if you are so keen to keep the heat in!

Try reading “environmental science in building, by randall mcmullan” to learn to calculate your own u values.

This will teach you to analyse the various systems when put together eg block wall, cavity, liner panel, insulation and outer layer.

Elizabeth asks…

plywood over attic insulation?

I need to replace my current attic insulation (it has compacted over many years) with something that works better. From my research, a loose fill 12″ or so should do the trick. I also am considering putting up a radiant barrier along the inside of the roof. Is there any danger of putting plywood boards over the new insulation or could it actually help with heating/cooling costs?

I understand that the electrical wiring ceiling wiring will be covered so if there is ever a problem the boards would have to come up.

Any other pros and cons?

Thanks.
That is part of my concern. I’ve calculated that I need about 12″-14″ of insulation to get the ideal R. Placing plywood boards over it will compact the insulation, probably decreasing the R value. However, does adding the plywood make up for that lost R? I don’t know.

admin answers:

Loose fill insulation may not be your choice if you plan on putting down plywood. Since the plywood would require you to compact the air space out of the loose fill, eliminating it’s effectiveness. You might look at alternate insulating products, including foam board.
Installing a radiant barrier is a good idea. But this would need to be placed on the roof deck, not the top of the joist framing where the insulation is usually placed. It’s usually difficult to impossible to place this from the attic side. The only other practical method to do it would be to wait until you need to replace the shingles, and add radiant barrier roof deck to that job.

Kirstie asks…

Fiberglass insulation vs. Blown insulation…which is best?

We live in upstate NY, and are remodling our hundred year old home. Which would be better for insulating the exterior walls. We would rather not take down exterior walls. The walls are sheetrocked over the plaster and lathe. During some remdloing we have noticed that there is blown insulation, but it has settled over the years. Would it be better to tear walls down and use standard insulation, or us the blown in. Also how is the blown in for retaining heat compared to fiberglass? Cost is not a huge issue, as we can do this ourselves. Also, would adding a fiber board insulation sheeting to the interior walls beneath new sheetrock be effective? Thank you for your help.

admin answers:

The main thing with insulation is to not have any air gaps or pockets….blown in is slightly better and cheaper than ripping down walls. Check with some local companies for R-value of each way. If you don’t mind the expense or time, the best thing is to tear down the drywall/lathe on the exterior walls and add 2 X2 strapping to each stud so you can insulate for 6 inch thick walls to lower future heating bills….makes a huge difference. You’ll have to add extension jambs around windows and doors but it’s worth it.

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