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Is insulation easily retro fitted into a cavity wall

admin — Fri, 10 Jun 2011 09:31:52 +0000

A home is built for a lifetime. Any damage to the home out of bad weather is definitely heart breaking. So it is well-said that “prevention is better than cure”. This is not only applicable to all human beings; undeniably it fits well when coming to the use of insulators for our home.

Researches say that half the heat is lost from the home through the wall and loft, also a good contribution is made by the doors, windows and pipes. So investment on insulation is worthy. To name a few varieties of insulations applied to the homes are – cavity insulation, wool insulation, floor insulation, loft insulation, glazing, tanks and pipes and many more.

A building having a cavity wall i.e, the outer wall and the inner wall being separated by an empty space or a cavity needs to go for the cavity wall insulation, since the outer wall tends to lose a larger amount of heat. With good cavity wall insulation, which uses a suitable insulant material, a suitable room temperature can be achieved. It is a simple and a cost effective solution that saves the fuel of the occupant.

Coming to the insulating board widely used by many movie halls, pubs, conference halls and the recording studios, it guarantees noise reduction coefficient, sound absorptive properties, flame resilient and low weight when the board is an acoustic wall. Besides some other categories of insulation boards also provide benefits like UV resistance, ozone resistance and corrosion resistance. The insulating boards are also used for the floor having rooms below with adequate ventilation.

Wool insulation is also a popular choice these days. Some of the great features of the wool are – a natural choice, not inert, healthy, eco-friendly, hygroscopic, non-allergic, fire resistant, low in conductivity, absorbs gases and fumes, and low in embodied energy. Therefore with wool insulation, air conditioning is ofcourse natural

Mineral wool insulation isn’t similar to the wool insulation. Mineral wool is the rock wool which is manufactured from the steel slag. This kind of insulation is permanent and effective against moisture and some agents of rots which are often unavoidable. One of the similar properties it shares with the wool insulation is its fire resistant property. But simultaneously extra precaution needs to be taken while working with it as it raises certain health concern especially to the eyes, skin and lung. So taking professional help at the time of installations guarantees the protection of our home and health as well.

Another way of saving a lot of valuable and expensive energy is by insulating the loft. So using the loft insulation, carbon dioxide emissions can be reduced, the major cause for climate change. Loft insulation prevents internal condensation assuring a warmer winter and a cooler summer, reduces noise from outside and thus improves the energy efficiency rating of the home.

Global warming the rising concern these days can be prevented to some extent with the application of above mentioned insulators to our homes. So let us take the initiative in making our planet a better place for living.

Olive Palmer is the author of this article on Cavity Insulation. Find more information about Wool insulation here.

Author: Olive Palmer
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

Steve asks…

whats a good material to put in between the plasterboard and the walls to stop noise escaping?

i want to build a night club but want to keep the building costs low what material could i place inbetween the plaster board and the brick walls? hmmmm had a thought you guys tell me if you think this will work … say i had plasterboard then a 1-2 inch gap of air then corrugated pvc sheet type roofing so they reflect the sound waves away from the wall and then normal loft type insulation on the back of that im also going to angle the walls downwars slightly should also make the room look cooler if done right any other ideas would be grately appreciated

admin answers:

I’ve heard that cork board is a great sound barrier and blocks out or in sounds. I’ve heard that it will absorb the sound.

Mandy asks…

Removing attic flooring from old home (built in 1900)?

I’m considering purchasing an old home to fix up. This would also be my residence. One of the biggest detractions from the house are low ceilings in the second floor. The house is small as it is, but the height of the second floor is only 6 1/2 feet tall. Granted, I won’t be hitting the ceiling (I’m only 5 foot 3), but reselling it will be difficult with the low ceilings. Also, it makes the rooms seem incredibly smaller than it would if it was a higher ceiling.

Above the second floor, there is a very shallow height attic. It follows the pattern of the roof – where the ceiling (roof) starts at a triangular corner at the base floor of both sides of the room. You can only stand up in the center of the room. The attic floor is not very sturdy – it seems like it was made of latched boards. My uneducated thought – is that maybe the floor of the attic could be removed, opening up the space of the top floor, hence making it more marketable and most importantly, more livable.

How much does it typically cost to do something like that (remove an old attic floor such as the one in the house)? Would it potentially cause significant insulation issues – and would it be difficult to address ensuing insulation issues? Would it be something that can be done while I was living in the house – assuming that I moved my stuff downstairs and lived on the first floor for awhile? If not, how long would a project like that take? Is it something I would need to have a contractor do for me – or could part of it be done by me? I’m assuming that at least some of it would be beyond my abilities.

Thanks!

admin answers:

Hi, Laura. Most houses built in that period were all wood construction. Taking out the ceiling joists of the second floor may weaken the structure and make the walls unstable which would make your roof structure unstable. I would definitely get a design architect to look at the structure to give you her/his opinion. It sounds like a great idea, but if no one else has done it in over 100 years, there may be a reason.
The work itself, if Ok’d by the architect, should be done by a reputable contractor. Not some HooDoo off the internet or the green sheet.

(You may be able to box-in open areas using header material about 18 to 24 inches from the wall edges).

Thomas asks…

how to replace my garage door?

i ran into my garage door the other day and had my friends dad come check it out to see if he could replace it. he said that i should go through homeowners insurance, but we are leasing the house and the owner is extremely selfish, and won’t use his insurance to do so. he also said to check if the boards used in the door are still made by that company. however, i can’t find the company name, and am just going with the idea that i will have to replace the door. any other ideas? if not, how much do you think it would cost to replace it? it’s a double garage (not sure of exact size), i don’t want insulation, and i want the cheapest kind. and any ideas where to get this? thanks

admin answers:

Don’t feel bad, I’ve done it twice. The boards can usually be replaced and the doors can almost ALWAYS be repaired. The last time I did it I really ran OVER the door. They complained but were able to fix it. I ended up putting in some new boards because I had ruined the others. Look in the yellow pages under garage doors and find an installer. If there is more than one see if you can get a free estimate. I had one company “Overhead Garage Doors” give me a price break because another company said they could do it cheaper. It was a lot, but it was something. I got a new car and it has sensors that go off and I have back up cameras…but…don’t say never….because if anyone can run over a garage door….it’s me!!!! I paid out of pocket because it would raise our home owners insurance too much. Good luck!!!

More on insulation (eleventhapostle.wordpress.com)
Home improvements: A corrosive issue (telegraph.co.uk)
Trust urges energy saving measures (confused.com)

Technorati Tags: Building insulation materials, kingspan insulation boards, polyurethane board insulation, Privacy

What Is The Best Type Of Insulated Plasterboards

admin — Wed, 18 May 2011 08:12:33 +0000

: Image via Wikipedia

If you are using insulated plasterboard the easiest way to ensure that you are getting the correct product is by asking an expert. This way ensures that you are getting the best advice from the people that know about your items. Insulated plasterboard comes in a number of differing types:

British Gypsum for instance produce a thermaline basic, thermaline super and thermaline plus all which meet differing and specific needs. A basic product is backed with standard polystyrene insulation and is used as a most basic requirement in any construction.

Daniel asks…

How do I insulate an attic-bedroom conversion?

I’ve got a house with an attic conversion that was done before I moved in. So far I’ve been using it as storage, but after living here a year I know that the attic room is an icebox in winter and a sauna in the summer, regardless of the temperature of the rest of the house.

I take this to mean that the attic is not insulated properly? The conversion looks like an amateur job and it doesn’t look like it was finished before the house was up for sale.

What do I need to buy and do to insulate the attic properly?
What kind of insulation do I need?

What it looks like I’ve got is the actual sloped roof itself, with plasterboard panels nailed to the beams, creating a cavity. In the cavity is what looks like plain old polystyrene. Yes, that’s right, polystyrene. I’m not aware that polystyrene is a good insulator. What do I buy to replace it with? And is it that simple to put the right kind of material in the cavity, or is there more to it than that?

admin answers:

If you want it done right,strip off the celing boards.pull down the strene,throw it away.go to lowe’s,home depot.ect.purchase the wafer panels for celing use.thease are panels that are set up to allow air to flow on roof side.they have a channel built in to them.and a staple adge on both sides.they go up easy.from the wall ends to the peak and overlap.they fit between the roof boards.then you can put up your good old r 38 roll insul.staple this up too.comes in widths of 16 and 24 inches.just measure.then replace your celing board,mud ,tape,paint.done.it sounds like alot of work ,but isnt.just takes time.but thease places all have weekend how to clinics,and really good people to answer your questions.and this way should save you some money on the energy bill.that in a year could pay for the work you did,so get er done”have fun and good luck.

Chris asks…

I am planning to use a shipping container and make a house. How would I avoid damp forming inside.?

I will be insulating the container on the outside and lining the inside of the container with plasterboard and rochwall insulation. I am worried about moisture behind the plasterboard forming on the surface of the steel. I will paint the steel for a vapour barrier and screed the floor with a flexible screed. I will do the ceiling the same as the walls.

admin answers:

You might be able to use actual vapor barrier..It is like a plastic sheeting that keeps moisture out .Steel building manufacturers have the same issues to deal with so I would check into the types of insulation and moisture barriers that they use. Great to see someone building with using shipping containers I wanted to do that myself ever since I first heard of it but haven’t been able yet.

Http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/products/commercial/comm_commercialwrap.html

http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp

Jemima asks…

i am turning my garage into office & need to know about isulating it?

it has single skin brickwork & intend to baton out interior walls & plasterboard, but knot sure whats best to insulate cavity with.

admin answers:

The problem with 100mm insulation is you will have to batten out to almost the same thickness as the insulation. You are much better off using insulation wall slabs these are designed to fit CLS battens. Make sure you space the battens so the slabs fit in with out having to cut them. Also think about buying plaster board which is foil backed. Use bugle headed screws rather then nails.

Graham asks…

Thermoboard or Spray Foam Insulation? max 25mm which is best?

I need to apply some insulation to a concrete ceiling the -topside being exposed to open air, hence its cold in winter on the inside!. I have limited headroom so can only go to max of 45mm inc plasterboard. Which option is best? The room will be heated and correctly ventilated, so I just need to stop the cold air against the ceiling causing the cold, as the walls are insulated.

admin answers:

Spray foam requires studding or furring out space. The Thermoboard can be directly applied to ceiling if smmoth enough, thus preserving headroom. Also spray foam is more expensive & requires pro application. The other is DIY.

Caroline asks…

Thermal foil insulation, which way should the foil face?

I have just purchased Thermal foil insulation for the loft, but the instructions are not great. I have had a loft conversion, but I want to insulate the storage area in the front of the roof.I am going to use this on the beams that seperate the room and the store, but should the foil face the plasterboard, or the store area?
By the way, the insulation comes on a roll, with foil on one side and bubble wrap on the other.

admin answers:

The foil should face the warm side of the wall or floor, otherwise it will trap condensation.

What Is The Best Type Of Insulated Plasterboards (insulationboards.net)

How many insulation boards are to be used for thermal insulation

admin — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 13:20:02 +0000

Thermal Insulation Boards are manufactured from different types of thermal insulating material. They are sheets which have insulating qualities, and are placed into buildings where heat loss can be a problem, causing unnecessary economical costs.

They are available in many different sizes, and can be simply cut to fit the desired space, then laid, glued, or fixed into place with the appropriate fixings i.e. nails or screws. Insulation boards are made from various insulating materials, and very commonly manufactured using rigid insulating foam with a thin sheet of reflecting foil adhered to one or both sides.

The areas of a building usually requiring thermal boards or similar insulation applications are the roof, floor and exterior walls. They are generally fixed into the building at the time of construction; however boards are generally not fitted into flo

ors or roofs, and can be applied later on in the buildings development if so desired.

In many buildings and particularly in the housing sector, solid timber in the form of head rails, studs, and sole plates, as well as intermediate floor joists and trimmers, will usually account for more than 20% of the external surface area of the building. This means that quite often less than 80% of the building is actually insulated.

Recent modern methods of construction have seen a rise in the popularity of steel framed buildings for commercial and residential

developments. This is because the framed panels are constructed off-site and then transported to the location where they are erected.

To reduce heat loss a thermal insulating layer, typically some form of insulating board, is placed on the outside of the frame to eliminate thermal bridging through the metal studs. This is known as warm frame construction.

There are many different types of insulation boards and some of these can include:

o Underfloor

o Wall

o Roof & Ceiling

o Exterior wall

o Exterior roof insulation boards & sheets

With today’s changing climate, offsetting and minimizing any carbon footprint by saving energy is becoming a popular and necessary action to take.

If you are in need of this service check out our product pages, they contain many companies that specialise in this. John Cheesman writes about Thermal Insulation Boards. Visit the Businessmagnet product page for details and suppliers of Thermal Insulation Boards.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Cheesman

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2816760

Mark asks…

how much is it gonna cost to fix my walls? 10 points!?

so the new room im moving into has a wall that has the insulation sticking out , and part of the wood wall is missing , thats why its sticking out. the other wall has like insulation board on it, and it looks like crap. should i just put thin would or dry wall over it and paint it? how much will this cost? thanks

admin answers:

1/2″ drywall is really inexpensive About $12.00 for a 4 x 8 sheet. With tape and screws and plaster an entire average room would cost about $ 150.00 to put up regular walls. Paint if you need all the supplies would be another $ 120.00 $ 15.00 for primer $ 20 to 40 for paint the rest for the tray tape roller brushes. If the room is above ground use drywall if it is in the basement use paneling (the thin wood).

David asks…

Ceiling Insulation Question?

In my cellar I have normal wooden framing for the ceiling, with in between each board some standard yellow insulation (The kind that looks like cotton candy). I’m tired of seeing it falling out, and I want to put up some sort of plastic/styrofoam board ceiling. How easily can this be done and how much would it cost per square foot of the material?

admin answers:

If you live in either the middle or southern staes you really dont need insulation at all. Heat rises and any from the cellar will help warm the floor. No insulation also helps with moisture issues. The floor is already cold on your feet with insulation and you wont feel the difference without.

Cindy asks…

Attic and Exterior Wall insulation?

Location: Austin, TX

I’m purchasing a new house. The builder is putting fiberglass batt insulation in exterior walls and blow-in firberglass insulation (R-38, 12inches) in attic.

Attic:
1. Is R-38, 12″ enough for firberglass fill? or should I go with cellulose. Cellulose seems to have issues with moisture and settling down overtime.

2. If I put cellulose, I think I cannot use that space at all, right? Is it okay to put a board to increase usable space?

Exterior Walls:
3. Anyone used cellulose for it? Is it worth the cost and maintenance?

4.. Is it worth the risk do it in both?
5. How to check if there any leaks or moisture buildup if I use cellular?
6. What are the maintenance costs?

Thanks in advance for your advice!
I forget to mention that, the roof already comes with Tech Shield Radiant Barrier and we also have Ridge and Soffit Venting.

Do I still need to go for Cellulose in attic? Are above not enough?

admin answers:

I am sure the contractor is using fiberglass in the attic because he has access to the joists and can easily roll out the insulation. You can put down plywood or particle board on top of the fiberglass to make usable attic space with no problem. Cellulose is being used in the walls because unless you want to tear out walls and put in the rolled insulation, it is the easiest method to spray it in. The cellulose will settle after time, but we are talking about quite a few years. And any insulation is better than none. When we first moved into this house, there was NO insulation and we could sit inside the house and the wind outside would blow our hair. I have never had to Maintain insulation, it is just there. Unless it gets wet somehow and needs to be replaced, I can’t think of anything you would need to do to it.

Marie asks…

thermal properties of Kingspan Insulation boards?

external walls upto 3m’s high:- 1MM thick Coated galvinised mild steel profile sheeting, 80mm mineral wool quilt with 100mm heavyweight block internal finish..

ok question is what part of this element would be exchanged for the insulation boards? internal part? filling or external?

and more importantly, does anyone know the thermal properties for the boards? ‘U’ values, or its heat capacity? if you cant go that deep can you tell me why the insulation board is better than the current set up? i need good detailed answers please!

im looking to find out which one is going to keep heat in! and the difference in heat loss between both set ups. and cost comparisons..

thanks for any help.

if you can give mre help plz email or IM me Jarinsiran1@yahoo.co.uk

admin answers:

I agree that you should go to kingspans website to check the K value of their materials so that you can calculate the U value of the entire wall.

Rockwool is a reasonable insulator, but will have no where near the resistance of a good thickness of high density foam insulation (not polystyrene).

You can get both composite panels and built up systems of insulation, the built up systems tend to use rockwool. A good system is the planjja (check the spelling) system.

Suggest you buy an environmental science book and learn how to calculate heat losses if you are so keen to keep the heat in!

Try reading “environmental science in building, by randall mcmullan” to learn to calculate your own u values.

This will teach you to analyse the various systems when put together eg block wall, cavity, liner panel, insulation and outer layer.

Elizabeth asks…

plywood over attic insulation?

I need to replace my current attic insulation (it has compacted over many years) with something that works better. From my research, a loose fill 12″ or so should do the trick. I also am considering putting up a radiant barrier along the inside of the roof. Is there any danger of putting plywood boards over the new insulation or could it actually help with heating/cooling costs?

I understand that the electrical wiring ceiling wiring will be covered so if there is ever a problem the boards would have to come up.

Any other pros and cons?

Thanks.
That is part of my concern. I’ve calculated that I need about 12″-14″ of insulation to get the ideal R. Placing plywood boards over it will compact the insulation, probably decreasing the R value. However, does adding the plywood make up for that lost R? I don’t know.

admin answers:

Loose fill insulation may not be your choice if you plan on putting down plywood. Since the plywood would require you to compact the air space out of the loose fill, eliminating it’s effectiveness. You might look at alternate insulating products, including foam board.
Installing a radiant barrier is a good idea. But this would need to be placed on the roof deck, not the top of the joist framing where the insulation is usually placed. It’s usually difficult to impossible to place this from the attic side. The only other practical method to do it would be to wait until you need to replace the shingles, and add radiant barrier roof deck to that job.

Kirstie asks…

Fiberglass insulation vs. Blown insulation…which is best?

We live in upstate NY, and are remodling our hundred year old home. Which would be better for insulating the exterior walls. We would rather not take down exterior walls. The walls are sheetrocked over the plaster and lathe. During some remdloing we have noticed that there is blown insulation, but it has settled over the years. Would it be better to tear walls down and use standard insulation, or us the blown in. Also how is the blown in for retaining heat compared to fiberglass? Cost is not a huge issue, as we can do this ourselves. Also, would adding a fiber board insulation sheeting to the interior walls beneath new sheetrock be effective? Thank you for your help.

admin answers:

The main thing with insulation is to not have any air gaps or pockets….blown in is slightly better and cheaper than ripping down walls. Check with some local companies for R-value of each way. If you don’t mind the expense or time, the best thing is to tear down the drywall/lathe on the exterior walls and add 2 X2 strapping to each stud so you can insulate for 6 inch thick walls to lower future heating bills….makes a huge difference. You’ll have to add extension jambs around windows and doors but it’s worth it.

Can houses be “too tight” or “too insulated”? (greenflbroker.com)
Insulation Choice is Key to Prestigious Kanata Lakes Apartments’ Greener Way of Life (prweb.com)
Consider multiple bids when insulating attic space (seattletimes.nwsource.com)

Technorati Tags: Building insulation, Building insulation materials, construction, Construction and Maintenance, Drywall, Floor, insulation, Mineral wool, polystyrene, Roof, Thermal bridge, Thermal insulation

What Is The Best Type Of Insulation Board For Vinyl Siding

admin — Sat, 12 Mar 2011 11:34:15 +0000

If you are pricing a specific project then it is imperitive to get the right type of contractor in who will give you a sensible price. When you do this you have to make sure that you check out the contract correctly. There are a number of people around who supply building materials and thermal insualtion boards who really dont know what they are doing. Therefore there are a number of instances where problems occur.

Kirstie asks…

How much will this job cost?

Reside in Albany, NY. Our house is 28′x36′ and has an attached 20′x20′ garage (both fully vinyl sided) (back of the house is 3 stories – due to walk out basement).

There was some damage to the siding on the garage (tree) and we decided, rather than replace 1 side (as we dislike the yellow siding) that we’d redo the entire thing (to match many renovations we’ve done). My husband CAN do this himself, but due to time constraints we are considering having a contractor do it.

We are awaiting the return of formal extimates we’ve requested. Can anyone ballpark what is reasonable? We’ve heard (from 2 contractors) between $9000 and $12000 (just waiting for the formal answer). This includes removing old siding (disposing of it) fully siding and insulation boarding the entire house and garage, and replacing ALL soffit. Is between 9 and 12 thousand a reasonable amt?

Thanks for your input!
the siding we’ve chosen will run about $4000.00 – would it be significant savings if we remove ALL the old siding ourselves? Should be hire someone only to redo the new siding?

admin answers:

The biggest cost will be the siding. So you will need to chose the product that you like the best, wood , plywood, shingle, composite type siding in cement or press woods. The cost of labor will be about the same for all about 30 to 40 % of the job. Make sure to get 3 bids and references. The cost seems with in reason.

PS check with your insurance company they may pay for a percentage of the cost due to the wind damage from the tree have them check it out before you make repairs.

Mark asks…

Can I insulate my house from the outside?

I will be replacing my sinding in the fall and plan on also replacing the “brown board” with OXB sheathing. My house currently has R11 inslulation and I was wandering if I can replace the current insulation with r13-r15 from the outside of the house. I thought as long as I face the vapor barrier toward the drywall I should be ok. I also plan on using insulated vinyl siding for my project.

admin answers:

While it is possible to do if you are planning to use fiberglass batts you need a deeper stud cavity for R-15.

Whats the best way to insulate my house

admin — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 11:16:15 +0000

Wehen you are trying to find the beat way to get building materials for you home you first need to consider the options available for the insulaion required. Whilst there are a number of specialist around who will give you advise there is really only 1 option when you are looking to get the best result for you home or premises.

Cindy asks…

Whats the best way to insulate my house?

We live in a ten year old semi-detached house close to Dublin. All bar one internal wall is timber-framed with plasterboard , the other one wall is solid brick (load-bearing). Outer walls are cavity block walls with sand/cement mix on outside and dry-lining and plaster on the inside. We have central heating which compromises of an Ideal Classic GAS Boiler and 11 rads. When the heating is turned on it doesn’t take long for the house to heat (20 mins) but when we turn the heat off the house cools very quickly. The problem is not heating the house but rather keeping the heat in the house. Insulation Problem. I am a qualified Plumber so the heating set-up is fine. I actually was going to go to the extreme of pouring dry sand or cement or a mix of both or ever broken up styrofoam down through the external cavities by accessing them through the attic/loft space. I think I am spending too much money on gas trying to keep the house warm , thanks people
Justin , I didnt say my house was built without insulation, it was built with insulation , all I’m saying is that I would like to imprive how my house holds the heat , you have to read the q

admin answers:

I don’t know the answer, but I think the sand or concrete mix is going the wrong way. Sounds like you would simply be adding to the mass of the house that will be getting cooled off by nature as you are struggling to warm the inside. What makes insulation work is the trapped air space (or loft) of the substance while keeping the solid mass to a minimum. That is why insulation does not work as well when installers cram too much into too little space. Keep it light, I would think. Also keeping the wind off the exterior walls as much as possible can’t hurt. Wind chill affects inanimate objects as well. A wind screen of bushes would help at least a little.

Technorati Tags: Building insulation materials, construction, insulation foam boards, kingspan insulation boards, mineral wool board insulation, polystyrene, polystyrene foam sheets

Where is the best place to get insulated boards

admin — Sat, 15 Jan 2011 09:18:45 +0000

Cavity Wall Insulation is an important insulating process that comes in handy quite substantially when looking to save money. Even more so as we have become more conscious of the significance of energy saving day by day as well as making our home environmentally friendly. More than ever, this typical Cavity Wall Insulation measure is worthwhile considering. Present studies have strengthened the assumption that most of the energy burning is intended for either cooling or heating inside the home. More than 50% of your energy payments tend to be collected for restoring heat regardless of adjustments associated with weather conditions outside.

If however you are considering creating your home to be an excellent as well as secure safe place and within your spending budget, you must look above your head and look for answer by way of Cavity Wall Insulation or Loft Insulation.

Cavity Wall Insulation and Loft Insulation is able to reduce our energy bills as a much as round 20% when installed using the appropriate methods.

There are a variety of methods in which we’re able to insulate our loft area depending upon the types of materials selected to be used. Because heat moves upwards and escapes by means of loft space, incorporating a layer of insulating material in the typical thickness advised will probably be efficient to prevent heat loss.

Even though the recommended thickness for Wall Insulation boards is 270mm, older properties with shallow gaps in between joists restrict such loft insulation depth. Totally different Cavity Wall Insulation measures with materials include many different features and also display very different scale of performance as well as announce totally diverse protection measures. As an example, it is very important to understand that mineral fibre or perhaps rock fibre materials can easily avoid rotting, damp or vermin and they are also non-flammable.

Everyone understands that heat rises, nonetheless many individuals may be surprised to find simply how much heat is actually lost from their homes resulting from inadequate loft insulation. With heating costs increasing, it’s never been more essential to make sure that your loft insulation is actually carried out, with government grants available to everyone to help towards the cost.

The Cavity Wall Insulation procedure simply means replenishing spaces with components resembling rock wool, cellulose, fibreglass as well as soybeans which decelerate or obstruct heat loss. To help keep your home and pocket comfortable, there’s no such thing as alternatives compared to investing in Cavity Wall Insulation and Loft Insulation.

In addition, once the insulation is installed correctly with the beneficial thickness of 270mm of mineral wool, the insulating material remains efficient in controlling heat movement for many years. In the event that better materials are used as well as much better techniques used to insulate your own house, additional effective Cavity wall insulation will most likely restore heat as well as saving money in the future plus save more energy.

As a result of, affordable Cavity Wall Insulation ensures lower consumption of home energy as you aren’t required to adjust your heating when your own house is capable of keeping heat for itself within the Cavity Wall Insulation.

There are lots of people who invest a quantity of money with regard to creating energy savings nonetheless that energy will probably be lost in the event the downstairs room shouldn’t be appropriately insulated. There are plenty of materials which can be employed for insulating the downstairs room and the actual depth of the insulators is also dependent on the materials. In case you are making use of mineral wool, then the possible depth would be 270mm.

There are a variety of several types of Wall insulating material boards. These embrace fibreglass matting which usually appears a bit like an enormous blanket, free-fill insulation supplies resembling mineral wool or cellulose fibres, as well as foam but its best left to the specialists! The matting as well as the unfastened-fill insulating material principally carry out the exact same job; the matting is actually rolled into place; the free-fill insulating material is supplied in bags and it is simply distributed into the gaps between your joists and also the ground of the loft.

Along with setting enjoyable and also energy saving advantages, Cavity Wall Insulation suppliers can assist with Home Insulation Grants which are available to everyone to assist in the costs associated with installation. Investing in loft insulation solution can easily reduce from heating bills by up to 350 per year. Accessibility of home insulation grants has grown with a number of suppliers coordinating grants for home owners and tenants based on particular criteria.

Cavity Wall Insulation in the roof space in the cold weather acts like a hat on your home as well as protects from entry of cold air into the house. Because of this fact, it additionally cuts down on the load on the heating systems. Similarly, a highly effective layer of insulation can end up being a key component in preventing scorching heat to enter by way of the attic inside your home and therefore, reduces the load on electricity of the homes in any weather.

http://www.viscount-insulation.co.uk can assist you through the process from start to finish including the Home Insulation Grants which are available from the Government.

Author: Thomas A Davidson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Buying Camera in US, Pick up at Canadian border

Lynn asks…

How to insulate and plasterboard a slate roof?

Hi,
I have an old end terraced house (1920) which has a slate angled roof. From inside I can see the slate tile (so no membrane down). I would like to insulate this and plasterboard this however I imagine I would need some membrane down first (which I would have to fix to the inside of the beams-instead of the usual of on top of the beam and then tile on top). I don;t want to re-tile my house but would like a simple solution to stop things falling into my attic and even tile this. How can I do this?
If I added glass fiber insulation rolls between the slate on the foil would this not send it soggy when it rains?

admin answers:

All Slate Roofs need to breath.

Http://www.homedoctor.net/roofing-siding/roofing/roof-insulation

For every 350 sq ft of slate roof, you require 1 foot of ventilation. If you insulate, between the rafters, you will need 1 foot for every 150 sq ft. Meaning that each space, between rafters, must have some kind of ventilation.

The HUGE negative to insulating directly in the rafters below your slate is that you will get a disproportionate amount of expansion and contraction with the slate vs. Its foundation (what it is attached to) without making sure it is ventilated well. Thereby shortening the life expectancy and creating huge repair bills down the road.

Your best solution is to insulate the floor of the attic well.

You can either String wire hangers from rafter to rafter. Place a thin line of insulation above the wire (fiberglass/pinkboard and etc.), making sure you do not contact the actual roof, and vent well. Or, simply install soffit venting throughout.

In all honesty, the best solution is to add a vapor barrier to the floor of the attic (directly above the ceiling below) and insulate well. Making sure you still have sufficient ventilation.

If you do decide to add a little insulation between the rafters, add either Green or Blue board to the rafters while providing enough ventilation both below and above to stop anything from falling. Make sure the attic is ventilated well, soffits and rafters, and you’ll be a happy camper.

Feel free to write to myself, should you have any questions. I’ll be happy to respond anytime.

Paul asks…

Vapour barrier on single thickness wooden outer wall?

I am insulating a single thickness outer wooden wall using polystyrene foam and then covering the inside with plasterboard. Do I need a vapour barrier and if so does it go on the wood side of the insulation or the plasterboard side?
UK so wet and damp sometimes and cold.
Thanks for your help and advice.

admin answers:

The vapor barrier goes between the insulation and the living space! U can also have a barrier under the siding that is on the wall……

Lic. Gen. Contractor

Davina asks…

how to insulate attic with styrofoam?

pitched slate roof, in attic, to be sealed with plasterboard including foil vapour barrier

admin answers:

Have you thought of hiring someone to blow in insulation in the attic. It works really good and won’t take much time.

Jim asks…

Insulate over or under platerboard in Loft Conversion?

I have purchased a property where the previous owners did a loft conversion; it has high sealings which have all been expertly plasterboarded. The only problem is that behind the platerboard is the roof felt with no insulation between the plasterboard and the felt. Id estimate that there’s a space of 2cm between the platerboard and felt. In the winter it is very cold in this loft to a point where you can see your own breath. It would be a big job to remove all of this plasterboard to insulate behind it. There can be a cold draft on very windy days. I have been to B and Q a few times looking at the insulation. Would it be straight forward to fix insulated boards to the existng plasterboard or can i use foam or loose fill insulation behind the plaster board. I really liked the look of some of the foil insulation boards and wonder if i could just fix these to my plaster board, Is the 2cm gap a good thing for insulation or should i fill the void with loose fill or foam insulation?

admin answers:

If there is only a 2 cm space between the plasterboard and the roof felt you can stop saying it was expertly done. No expert would had done that.

You need the 2 CM of space as an air gap so you can’t do anything that space. The only thing left to do is insulate below the plaster (if space allows try for and R30) and re-plaster over it.

Use rigid sytrofoam

Sorry

???

Mandy asks…

best wall insulation?

could someone tell me the best (and warmest) insulation to buy for the walls in my VERY cold bathroom, it backs onto a brick shed which I suspect will also need insulating, but what should I buy??…I do NOT want cavity wall. I understand that I can put battening up, then insulate, then plasterboard, or in my case tonge and groove…can someone help please with the type of insulation….many thanks

admin answers:

Celotex/Kingspan/ecotherm minimum 50mm thick between battens will be best for you. Also Spray filler foam in every joint, crack or crevice to seal all draughts.

You can also get Airtec/isover foil sheet insulation to add on before the T&G but it’s Bl**dy expensive.

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admin — Mon, 10 Jan 2011 22:21:26 +0000

Ken asks…

Polystyrene or injected foam insulation: which one is better?

I’m replacing my wood garage door (which is attached to my home) with a steel door (because it’s cheaper), but I don’t know which insulation to use. Home Depot offers the board insulation and another company is offering the injected foam insulation. Which one should I use.

admin answers:

You might get more specific guidance from the following web pages about insulation and insulation materials:

http://www.building-your-green-home.com/types-of-insulation.html

http://www.building-your-green-home.com/insulation-materials.html

Hope this helps!

Jemima asks…

I am replacing the head liner in 1978 Ford Bronco II. The insulation under the headliner was bad.?

I am replacing the head liner in my 1978 Ford Bronco II. The insulation under the headliner was bad. What can I use for insulation. I have heard you can use foam board type insulation sold at Home Depot.

I also need to know how thick the insulation must be or how can I take a measurement to determine the thickness of the insulation.

admin answers:

Most headliners are like yours. They are foam and material put on cardboard. I have never replaced one myself but have been told you can use 1/8 to 1/4 sheet of foam bought from any craft store. You could even buy from local upholstery shop. Clean your board and reuse it if in good shape. Glue foam to board using spray can.Then glue headliner to foam. Install headliner back into truck being careful not to stretch material too much. Check online under Ford truck parts to see if you can buy one already assembled. Good luck!

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Review On Loft Insulation Properties

admin — Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:34:00 +0000

People who live in Ontario have dealt with weather-related issues regarding basement insulation as long as there have been homes in the area. No one needs to tell them that in the extremely cold region they live in, basements that have no insulation let far too much cold air into their homes and allow heat to escape.

In the southwestern part of Ontario it is estimated that the average ground temperature is 55 degrees F (12 degrees C). This is far too cold to leave your basement un-insulated, but many people have found the cost of insulation to be out of their price range. Unfortunately, this just raises heating bills on the other end.

The sad fact is that without full-height insulation, the floors upstairs will be extremely cold no matter how much heat you pump into your home. In northern areas of Ontario, about 20-25% of the heat you lose from your home goes out through the basement, usually around the sill plate where the basement wall meets the first floor. This means that you’re basically pumping heat into the outdoors instead of into your home which is nothing but a huge waste of your money.

Due to a limited budget, many people try to take the least expensive option in these cases, which is to add batt insulation between the floor boards in the basement ceiling. This may work to an extent, but eventually the insulation will trap moisture that will rot floor boards and lead to more major damage. Full-height insulation is a necessity in Ontario, and it needs to be at least R-12 for homes heated with oil or gas and R-19 in homes with electric heat. Although the costs can usually be recouped in 1-5 years, insulating can be very expensive which is prohibitive for many homeowners.

To help mitigate this problem, the federal Canadian government along with the provincial government in Ontario offers rebates to homeowners who add insulation to their basements and bring them up to local building codes. For example, homeowners who cover 100% of their exterior basement walls with at least R-23 insulation can receive a rebate of up to $2000.

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Putting In Insulation Cheaply

admin — Tue, 26 Oct 2010 13:34:00 +0000

Every home needs home insulation. However, there are several types from which to choose. We will go over a few of them in this article. Insulation is meant to reduce the flow of heat out of your home and into your home. Some of the particular types include fiberglass, rigid foam boards and liquid foam.

It is important to decide which the best home insulation for your house is. One factor that will help make the decision is the particular climate you live in. An effectively insulated home is an energy efficient and much more comfortable home to live in.

The best way to determine which home insulation is best for your climate is to contact your state or local energy conservation office.

Fiberglass home insulation comes in rolls or batts. These are to be installed between floor joists or in wall cavities. There are safety hazards when working with this type of insulation. Make sure you wear a dust mask or a respirator so that you do not breathe in any of the particles. In addition, wear long sleeves and gloves to protect your skin.

Rigid foam home insulation is also known as foam boards. They are more commonly used to insulate the foundation of a home because of their water resistance abilities. Another popular use of this type of insulation is for exterior insulation on walls or under siding. They must be fit tightly together to avoid any loss of energy.

Rigid foam home insulation has a higher R-value than fiberglass, which is why many homeowners and builders prefer to use it.

Liquid foam home insulation is sprayed in a thin layer onto a wall. It is then left alone to expand and fill the wall cavity before anything is added over top of the insulation. One of the main advantages of this type is that once it is applied you do not need to worry about it settling or moving. It provides an airtight seal. It is also quick to apply if you have the experience.

Most home insulation can be installed by a good do it yourselfer. However, many contractors have a lot of experience if you are not comfortable with the job.

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Insulating Your Home

admin — Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:34:00 +0000

There are 3 types of rigid foam board insulation they are; polystyrene, polyisocyanurate and polyurethane. Each has uses they are better suited for than the others. I will talk about different type’s uses and safety measures you should take when installing attic insulation. The first is polystyrene. This type of insulation uses deep heat and pressure to mold into shape. It is best used in walls and installing attic insulation. Although it is more expensive than the other two its characteristics makes it a lot stronger and more durable than the others. The second type of rigid foam insulation is bead board. It is made in such a way that bead expand to fit, producing a better insulated area. This type of insulation is often found in every day products.

Because of the bead spacing moisture is allowed to be absorbed. The third is polyisocyanurate and polyiso foam boards. Because of its strength and durability to withstand extreme temperatures it is ideal when installing attic insulation. It has a wonderful moisture barrier when it’s applied with aluminum foil facing. There are some things that you need to know before using rigid foam insulation. First we will discuss flame retarder. This product takes a lot to ignite but once it does it will burn steady. It will also smolder for some time. Safety regulations require you to use flame resistant material like panel, dry wall, or gypsum wall board over the insulation.

It also deteriorates in direct sunlight so if you are installing attic insulation it needs protected with acrylic silicone, rubberized paint asphalt, roofing felt, or tar. Bugs like to make nests in the insulation so if you are insulating basement or floors it is wise to use insecticide treated insulation. Also by placing the insulation on the inside you will discourage bugs. Rigid foam insulation soaks in and traps moisture.

This could easily cause mold and wood damage. To prevent this you should use a vapor diffusion retarder especially when installing attic insulation. Of the three types of insulation; loose fill, batt and blanket and rigid foam board insulation this type has the cheapest initial start up cost. Although it can be used for many things, this product will be counter productive if installed wrong or safety precautions are not correctly taken. Before you begin installing attic insulation please read safety precautions carefully check with local building coderegulations.

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