How many insulation boards are to be used for thermal insulation
Thermal Insulation Boards are manufactured from different types of thermal insulating material. They are sheets which have insulating qualities, and are placed into buildings where heat loss can be a problem, causing unnecessary economical costs.
They are available in many different sizes, and can be simply cut to fit the desired space, then laid, glued, or fixed into place with the appropriate fixings i.e. nails or screws. Insulation boards are made from various insulating materials, and very commonly manufactured using rigid insulating foam with a thin sheet of reflecting foil adhered to one or both sides.
The areas of a building usually requiring thermal boards or similar insulation applications are the roof, floor and exterior walls. They are generally fixed into the building at the time of construction; however boards are generally not fitted into flo
ors or roofs, and can be applied later on in the buildings development if so desired.
In many buildings and particularly in the housing sector, solid timber in the form of head rails, studs, and sole plates, as well as intermediate floor joists and trimmers, will usually account for more than 20% of the external surface area of the building. This means that quite often less than 80% of the building is actually insulated.
Recent modern methods of construction have seen a rise in the popularity of steel framed buildings for commercial and residential
developments. This is because the framed panels are constructed off-site and then transported to the location where they are erected.
To reduce heat loss a thermal insulating layer, typically some form of insulating board, is placed on the outside of the frame to eliminate thermal bridging through the metal studs. This is known as warm frame construction.
There are many different types of insulation boards and some of these can include:
o Wall
o Roof & Ceiling
o Exterior wall
o Exterior roof insulation boards & sheets
With today’s changing climate, offsetting and minimizing any carbon footprint by saving energy is becoming a popular and necessary action to take.
If you are in need of this service check out our product pages, they contain many companies that specialise in this. John Cheesman writes about Thermal Insulation Boards. Visit the Businessmagnet product page for details and suppliers of Thermal Insulation Boards.
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Mark asks…
how much is it gonna cost to fix my walls? 10 points!?
so the new room im moving into has a wall that has the insulation sticking out , and part of the wood wall is missing , thats why its sticking out. the other wall has like insulation board on it, and it looks like crap. should i just put thin would or dry wall over it and paint it? how much will this cost? thanks
admin answers:
1/2″ drywall is really inexpensive About $12.00 for a 4 x 8 sheet. With tape and screws and plaster an entire average room would cost about $ 150.00 to put up regular walls. Paint if you need all the supplies would be another $ 120.00 $ 15.00 for primer $ 20 to 40 for paint the rest for the tray tape roller brushes. If the room is above ground use drywall if it is in the basement use paneling (the thin wood).
David asks…
Ceiling Insulation Question?
In my cellar I have normal wooden framing for the ceiling, with in between each board some standard yellow insulation (The kind that looks like cotton candy). I’m tired of seeing it falling out, and I want to put up some sort of plastic/styrofoam board ceiling. How easily can this be done and how much would it cost per square foot of the material?
admin answers:
If you live in either the middle or southern staes you really dont need insulation at all. Heat rises and any from the cellar will help warm the floor. No insulation also helps with moisture issues. The floor is already cold on your feet with insulation and you wont feel the difference without.
Cindy asks…
Attic and Exterior Wall insulation?
Location: Austin, TX
I’m purchasing a new house. The builder is putting fiberglass batt insulation in exterior walls and blow-in firberglass insulation (R-38, 12inches) in attic.
Attic:
1. Is R-38, 12″ enough for firberglass fill? or should I go with cellulose. Cellulose seems to have issues with moisture and settling down overtime.
2. If I put cellulose, I think I cannot use that space at all, right? Is it okay to put a board to increase usable space?
Exterior Walls:
3. Anyone used cellulose for it? Is it worth the cost and maintenance?
4.. Is it worth the risk do it in both?
5. How to check if there any leaks or moisture buildup if I use cellular?
6. What are the maintenance costs?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
I forget to mention that, the roof already comes with Tech Shield Radiant Barrier and we also have Ridge and Soffit Venting.
Do I still need to go for Cellulose in attic? Are above not enough?
admin answers:
I am sure the contractor is using fiberglass in the attic because he has access to the joists and can easily roll out the insulation. You can put down plywood or particle board on top of the fiberglass to make usable attic space with no problem. Cellulose is being used in the walls because unless you want to tear out walls and put in the rolled insulation, it is the easiest method to spray it in. The cellulose will settle after time, but we are talking about quite a few years. And any insulation is better than none. When we first moved into this house, there was NO insulation and we could sit inside the house and the wind outside would blow our hair. I have never had to Maintain insulation, it is just there. Unless it gets wet somehow and needs to be replaced, I can’t think of anything you would need to do to it.
Marie asks…
thermal properties of Kingspan Insulation boards?
external walls upto 3m’s high:- 1MM thick Coated galvinised mild steel profile sheeting, 80mm mineral wool quilt with 100mm heavyweight block internal finish..
ok question is what part of this element would be exchanged for the insulation boards? internal part? filling or external?
and more importantly, does anyone know the thermal properties for the boards? ‘U’ values, or its heat capacity? if you cant go that deep can you tell me why the insulation board is better than the current set up? i need good detailed answers please!
im looking to find out which one is going to keep heat in! and the difference in heat loss between both set ups. and cost comparisons..
thanks for any help.
if you can give mre help plz email or IM me Jarinsiran1@yahoo.co.uk
admin answers:
I agree that you should go to kingspans website to check the K value of their materials so that you can calculate the U value of the entire wall.
Rockwool is a reasonable insulator, but will have no where near the resistance of a good thickness of high density foam insulation (not polystyrene).
You can get both composite panels and built up systems of insulation, the built up systems tend to use rockwool. A good system is the planjja (check the spelling) system.
Suggest you buy an environmental science book and learn how to calculate heat losses if you are so keen to keep the heat in!
Try reading “environmental science in building, by randall mcmullan” to learn to calculate your own u values.
This will teach you to analyse the various systems when put together eg block wall, cavity, liner panel, insulation and outer layer.
Elizabeth asks…
plywood over attic insulation?
I need to replace my current attic insulation (it has compacted over many years) with something that works better. From my research, a loose fill 12″ or so should do the trick. I also am considering putting up a radiant barrier along the inside of the roof. Is there any danger of putting plywood boards over the new insulation or could it actually help with heating/cooling costs?
I understand that the electrical wiring ceiling wiring will be covered so if there is ever a problem the boards would have to come up.
Any other pros and cons?
Thanks.
That is part of my concern. I’ve calculated that I need about 12″-14″ of insulation to get the ideal R. Placing plywood boards over it will compact the insulation, probably decreasing the R value. However, does adding the plywood make up for that lost R? I don’t know.
admin answers:
Loose fill insulation may not be your choice if you plan on putting down plywood. Since the plywood would require you to compact the air space out of the loose fill, eliminating it’s effectiveness. You might look at alternate insulating products, including foam board.
Installing a radiant barrier is a good idea. But this would need to be placed on the roof deck, not the top of the joist framing where the insulation is usually placed. It’s usually difficult to impossible to place this from the attic side. The only other practical method to do it would be to wait until you need to replace the shingles, and add radiant barrier roof deck to that job.
Kirstie asks…
Fiberglass insulation vs. Blown insulation…which is best?
We live in upstate NY, and are remodling our hundred year old home. Which would be better for insulating the exterior walls. We would rather not take down exterior walls. The walls are sheetrocked over the plaster and lathe. During some remdloing we have noticed that there is blown insulation, but it has settled over the years. Would it be better to tear walls down and use standard insulation, or us the blown in. Also how is the blown in for retaining heat compared to fiberglass? Cost is not a huge issue, as we can do this ourselves. Also, would adding a fiber board insulation sheeting to the interior walls beneath new sheetrock be effective? Thank you for your help.
admin answers:
The main thing with insulation is to not have any air gaps or pockets….blown in is slightly better and cheaper than ripping down walls. Check with some local companies for R-value of each way. If you don’t mind the expense or time, the best thing is to tear down the drywall/lathe on the exterior walls and add 2 X2 strapping to each stud so you can insulate for 6 inch thick walls to lower future heating bills….makes a huge difference. You’ll have to add extension jambs around windows and doors but it’s worth it.
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